Edomae Sushi
The Raw Scoop on Tokyo’s Edomae Sushi
From traditional delicacy to conveyor belt convenience, sushi in Tokyo has gone through a long journey throughout history. But we might not know the globally popular dish without one clever food stall owner.
Trace the history of sushi in the former capital of Edo, from food stalls to Michelin stars.
While debates over the history of sushi can get as fiery as a large mouthful of wasabi, many agree that the present-day style can be credited to one man, Yohei Hanaya, who developed Edomae sushi. Hanaya is thought to be the first to press neta (toppings) onto vinegared rice by hand to create bite-sized morsels. “Edomae” means “in the Edo style,” as Edo is the former name for Tokyo.
Hanaya would also simmer the neta in a light broth or marinate them with vinegar and salt to help with preservation. Through Hanaya’s innovativeness, Edomae sushi came to have two meanings: sushi made with ingredients from Tokyo Bay (the waters around Edo were considered Edomae) or neta that aren’t simply served plain and uncooked. He didn’t, however, have his big break until he set up a yatai, or street stall, where he could sell his tasty snacks quickly and easily to the busy people of Edo.
From convenience stores to conveyor belt joints, the variety of sushi nationwide is as astounding as it is tantalizing. However, it has also evolved into an art form that embodies seasonality, respect for each ingredient, and kodawari, the pursuit of perfection. Travelers to Tokyo shouldn’t miss out on a high-end sushi course served by a highly trained itamae, or master sushi chef.
Edomae Sushi
While there is no shortage of choice for what to dine on in Tokyo, no visit to the Japanese capital is complete without sampling this hometown take on one of the country’s most iconic dishes. One bite of sushi from the hands of a master chef is sure to tickle your taste buds!